Sardinia : Live like a Local

Live like a Local

Cagliari : Eat, Sleep, Discover

Island bastion with the essence of Italy: Cagliari

The Sardinian capital is perfect for a short break in the Med, says Francisca Kellett.

Why go?

Italy’s glitterati have long flocked to Sardinia’s beautiful coastline, but flights introduced this summer have given the island’s capital a new lease of life.

Cagliari encompasses everything you’d hope for in an elegant Italian town: a medieval core of tightly packed churches and townhouses, a well-kept Roman amphitheatre, fine restaurants, a beach within striking distance of the centre and well-heeled locals who turn out every evening for a traditional passeggiata.

The journey

EasyJet (0905 821 0905, www.easyjet.com) has daily flights from Luton to Cagliari from £41 return, including tax. Airport buses run every hour to Piazza Matteotti, on the waterfront, and cost 2 euro. A taxi will cost about £12.

The hotels

(Prices are for a double room, b&b, based on two sharing.)

£122 Hotel Mediterraneo, Lungomare Colombo 46 (00 39 070 342361, www.hotelmediterraneo.net).
A modern, uninspiring exterior holds a typically Italian four-star, awash with marble and dark wood, a 10-minute walk to the old centre.

£60 Hotel Italia, Via Sardegna 31 (00 39 070 660410 ).
Retro riot in the centre of the Marina, although there isn’t a breath of irony about the mushroom-shaped lamps, brown carpeting and bucket seats. The blessedly simple rooms are good value.

From£30 Boutique Bed and Breakfasts www.go-sardinia.com
Stylish and great value for money

The restaurants

£35 Dal Corsaro, Viale Regina Margherita 28 (00 39 070 664318 ).
With a family-based clientele, Cagliari’s smartest restaurant is surprisingly relaxed. A highlight: the delicate, hand-made, lemon-filled tortellini.

£17 Lu Lilicu, Via Sardegna 78 (00 39 070 652970 ).
The best of a dozen good little trattorias in the Marina. The food is typically Sardinian – try bottarga (spaghetti with grated tuna roe) or porcetto (suckling pig). Must book.

£12 Antico Caffe dal 1855, Piazza Costituzione (00 39 070 658206 ).
Sit on the terrace overlooking the busy piazza, or at the marble-topped tables under a vaulted butter-yellow ceiling. The pace is frenetic, but its history – it dates from 1855 – and a long menu of salads, pasta and daily specials draw lunchtime queues.

The big night out

Join the passeggiata along Via Giuseppe Manno to Piazza Yenne, stopping for an ice cream (100-plus flavours) at Isola del Gelato. After dinner, go to Piazza Yenne to people-watch from Forum Café’s outdoor tables.

From midnight, the young and glamorous head east to Poetto beach’s bars and nightclubs, such as the long-running Lido (Viale Poetto 41). Alternatively, the Roman amphitheatre, west of the Castello, hosts open-air concerts during summer.

The classic sight

Of all Sardinia’s inhabitants and invaders, the native Nuraghic people have left the most indelible mark.

Dominating the interior from the Bronze Age until around 600BC, they left the landscape littered with mysterious stone towers and bronze figurines.

A fine collection of the latter is in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (entrance £3.40 with entrance to the Pinacoteca Nazionale gallery, next door).

The alternative sight

At weekends the city decamps to Poetto beach, a vast stretch of grey-white sand, much of it given over to lidos, where you can rent an umbrella for £3. Two blocks west, over the highway, is a string of lakes, host to flocks of flamingos.

The walk

From the Piazza Martin d’Italia, climb the steep street through Lion’s Gate to the medieval Castello district, enclosed by ivory-coloured fortifications.

A broad terrace, home to a Sunday flea market, has views over the city and sea. A stiff walk north leads to Piazza Palazzo, framed by crumbling townhouses, the pistachio-coloured Palazzo Viceregio and the cathedral.

For £1.40, you can climb the pockmarked Torre di San Pancrazio, a soaring Pisan watchtower built in 1305. The old arsenal holds the archaeology and art museum. Strike east for the Roman amphitheatre, or turn back and launch into a bewildering warren of old streets winding down the hill. Keep heading right, and come out at Torre dell’Elefante, the other Pisan watchtower. South is Piazza Yenne, leading to the Marina area, wedged between the Castello hill and the waterfront, and packed with churches and restaurants.

The shops

£24 buys a midnight-blue pottery vase at Claudio Brai’s ramshackle shop/studio in the Castello area (Claudio Brai, Via Lamarmora 37).

£9 buys a thick wedge of pecorino, a ewe’s-milk cheese with a sharp, Parmesan-type flavour (Sapori di Sardegna, Vico dei Mille 1).

£3.50 buys a box of traditional almond biscuits made by the jovial, sugar-dusted Maurizia Pala (Durke, Via Napoli 66).

The guidebook

The Rough Guide to Sardinia (£12.99).

What’s on when

The island’s biggest festival honours its patron saint, Sant’Efisio. A huge, four-day procession begins in the city centre on May 1, with floats and carts heading out to the Roman site of Nora. Further information from the Italian State Tourist Board (00800 00482542, www.enit.it).

Italy’s last wine frontier

by Andrew Catchpole, 2008

The Producers

Any tour of Sardinia’s wineries (and the DOC Wine Consortium produces a very thorough book in English on several wine routes, gastronomy and local points of interest) takes time as the island is surprisingly big and the wineries far flung. I headed to the south and then zig-zagged my way up the country to take in as much as I could.

 

Santadi

First stop was Santadi in the south-west, a typical cooperative where 75% of the 230 members collective 600ha is planted to Carignano (Carignan). The loss of the French bulk market at the beginning of the 1980’s drove the decision to begin bottling and selling Santadi-labelled wines with the blessing of roving consultant Giacomo Tachis who identified the potential for quality from pre-phyloxera vines in the these sandy soils. Best of the wines is the intense, tobacco and spice ripe flagship Terre Brune Carignano del Sulcis DOC which blends a dash of Boval with Carignano, plus the pure berry and herb fruit of the entry level Grotta Rossa showing the appeal of 100% local Carignano. 

Pala

The real star of the south is Pala, a 54ha family-owned winery begun in the 1950’s but which started bottling under its own label as recently as 1998, again representing the very recent swing to quality estate bottled wine in much of Sardinia. White Vermentino and Nuragus (for which Sardinia’s second white DOC. Nuragus di Cagliari was created), plus Carignano and the indigenous Monica are the backbone of the wines here. The snappy, modern-designed labels are reflected in the crisp, aromatic styles of Vermentino, with added richness and complexity found in the Entemari, which blends in Chardonnay and Malvasia for extra depth. Cannonau and Bovale make an appearance as excellent single varietal red wines respectively in the Triente and Essentija, while the brooding single vineyard S’Arai shows all the concentration of low cropped Cannonau, Carignano and Bovale in a balanced and concentrated wine.

  
  

Dolianova

A third visit in the south took me to Dolianova, another coop making strides with zesty Vermentino and bright, juicy Cannonau wines. Best in show here, though, was the Terresicci (left), an intense cherry-ish blend of Barbera Sardo, Syrah and Montepulciano, again revealing Sardinia’s broad viticultural heritage. 

Gostolai

A long drive north followed into the mountainous interior around Oliena, known locally for Godello and where rocky soils and cold nights can conspire to produce intense, minerally wines. Jesuits first produced wine here in the C15, but the most prominent modern winery is the fledgling Gostolai set up a mere 10 years ago. Cannonau and Vermentino are Gostalai’s mainstays, making leaner, tighter wines than their southern counterparts, and there is still some way to go in the vineyards and winery to fully realise the potential here. Bu potential there is, best shown in the Nepente di Oliena VQPRD Cannonau, revealing a mineral-lined complexity with hints of tea and spice on a long finish. 

 

Contini

Backtracking to the Sinis peninsula in the west, on of the islands oldest wineries is Contini with its 110-year legacy of producing wine under its own labels. The usual grape suspects crop up here, along with Nieddera, a local variety that produces a dark-cherry concentrate of a wine, plus a deeply traditional version of Vernaccia aged in a solera system. These wines were a real eye opener, with tangy, nutty, dried fruit characteristics, capped by a stunning number called Flor 22, its solera dating back to 1898 and resembling an old Madeira in taste. Right: Flor growing on the Flor 22.   

Gallura

The north-eastern province of Gallura is dubbed ‘the land of Vermentino’, boasting as separate DOCG for the variety, guaranteeing higher alcohol and, in theory, protecting more of a minerally concentration typically found in the wines. The hulking cooperative of the cantina Gallura at first looked an unprepossessing sort of place but did deliver with wines such as the floral, minerally Genesi which captured the best of this variety. Another surprise find here was a superb Nebbiolo called Dolmen, displaying a perfumed intensity and cherry-edged minerally length. 

Sella & Mosca

   My final port of call was to Sardinia’s best-known estate, the rather grand Sella & Mosca winery just outside the charming Catalan town of Alghero. With 550ha under vine and over 100 years history of exporting Sella & Mosca are by far Sardinia’s most prominent and internationally recognised winery with a portfolio of accomplished, international-meets-indigenous wines to match. Encouragingly, varieties such as Torbato, making aromatic floral and creamy fresh white, plus Cannonau are the mainstay of the single varietal and blended wines, while a range of varieties from white Nuragus to Sangiovese and Carignano, plus Cabernet Sauvignon (planted here for over 100 years) complete the picture. The Torbatos are good, not least with the local seafood, and make very pleasant sparkling wine to boot, while the Cabernet-Cannonau Tanca Farra and 100% Cabernet Marchese di Villamarina are outstanding.   

As a flagship for Sardinian wine Sella & Mosca can hold its head high. It clearly points the way for the potential of future Sardinian wines, a potential that is increasingly being recognised as other producers raise the quality bar. And, in a world awash with identikit international varieties and styles, Sardinia has much to offer that is individual, indigenous and far from run of the mill. Let’s hope we will see more of 

Bosa

The town of Bosa  is situated about 40kms to the south of Alghero and is reached by a fabulous winding costal road which gives some amazing views of the mountains and the crystaline waters. Take time to stop off along this road to enjoy the wonderful beaches   8 km from Alghero is la speranza which also has a snack-bar and restaurant. About 5 km from Bosa you will see parking spaces which allow access to a number of small sandy beaches

The Town of Bosa

Bosa is built 4 km from the sea on the River temo which is the only navigable river in Sardinia. Bosa, is surrounded by mountains and sea, and has been protected from tourist development which gives the town a relaxed, laid back atmosphere. Bosa is dominated by the hilltop remains of Castello Malaspina, the medieval fortress constructed by the powerful Malaspina family in 1112. In addition to its exterior walls and towers only the single church of Nostra Signora di Regnos Altos remains standing within although this contains some fine examples of Catalan style frescos dating back to the fourteenth century.

To the south of the Castle, on the north bank next to the bridge, is the Cathedral. This structure dates back to the fifteenth century although the exterior is from the more recent Baroque period. Inside, is a splendid interior of marble statues and nineteenth century frescos.

The Marina

Bosa marina is located at the mouth of the River Temo and this resort extension was once the site of the main town. Today it comprises of a deep and wide sandy beach overlooked by a Spanish watchtower and backed by a small number of hotels, restaurants and bars.

Feast of Santa Maria & Festival of honey

honey festival sardinia August

When?: Feast of Saint Mary 14-22 August; Honey Festival August 30-31

The feast of Santa Maria, is the most ancient and important in the area  while the honey festival is the result of extensive experience in local production of honey and its derivatives. 

Info: Pres. The Committee of Santa Maria, Sig.Vargiu John 3332589006; Ass. Renato Cherchi / Municipality of Guspini – via Don Minzioni 10, Guspini – Tel. 070 9760 Cell.3355797943 
Pres. Guspini Pro Loco Rossella Dessì via San Nicholas 17 Guspini-Tel. 070 970384 Cell. 3383316533

Discover Alghero


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Alghero has been one of the most popular desitinations in Sardinia since the’60s, especially because it can boast the presence of large monuments attractive in the city, and more recently with the arrival of the low cost airline Ryan air which flies in from mainland Britain and ireland

The Spanish forts and part of the ancient city walls were demolished at the end of the nineteenth century, so as to allow for expansion in Alghero. Today there are still the ancient ramparts and towers that overlook the sea, such as the famous porta Eart andSant Joan. The ancient streets of the s “walled city” have a pavement in acciotolato or stone and is picturesque

The visit of Alghero begins at old port, which can be reached along the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The port is dominated by massive bastione of mary magdalene and a  tower, which contains a plaque certifying the visit of Garibaldi as far back as August 14, 1855. On the opposite side is the Bastion Magellan, overlooking the port and connects to the south with the Bastion Pigafetta (where there is the famous Tower Polverera), with the Bastion Marco Polo and, finally, with Forts Cristoforo Colombo, which are between the towers of St. James and Sulis. 

E ‘can reach the Piazzetta Civic passing through the impressive Sea port, where are the old City Hall and the interesting Albis palace or de Ferrera, a great example of Gothic architecture with several windows in the same style. On the left side, the entrance door to Sea, there is a small sculpture of Sant’Elm, protector of seafarers, the work of sculptor Antonio Avagnina. Proceeding further, the square connects with the wide Via Manno, they are in the Oratorio del Rosario and the Cathedral of St.Mary, in neoclassical style, built during the nineteenth century. The construction consists of three aisles, separated by a massive column of trachyte, on the one octagonal dome and a transept with beautiful Renaissance portals, belonging to the first half of the sixteenth century. Even the base of the tower is particularly fascinating, made up of fantastic portals gigliati Gothic. 

Along the Via Umberto feature is the  Casa Doria, with portal and windows of the sixteenth century, while in nearby Piazza Vittorio Emanuele you can admire the Civic Theater of the nineteenth century. In the square are also the Archbishopric and the so-called Palau Machin particular example of Gothic architecture Catalan. From the Piazzetta Civic, the central Via Carlo Alberto, road characteristic for the presence of several shops, leads to the St Francis Church built during the second half of the fifteenth century and rebuilt nell’ottocento. Inside the building you can admire the fantastic cross vaults of chapels, the various Gothic arches and a wonderful time stellata in the presbytery, probably the most beautiful in Sardinia. E ‘can also admire the wooden altars side, the two statues of Christ and the Dead Christ at the Column and windows decorated the gallery, located on the left of the main. From the sacristy you can get to Romanesque cloister of the fourteenth century, the only example of this type survived in Sardinia. Just behind is easily recognisable the Churchof San Michele built in 1612 and characterized by a large wooden choir, from important baroque altars and polychrome an imposing dome that stands between the narrow streets of the historic center, created in the eighteenth century by Filippo Figari.

On the right side of the church, within the premises of Liceo Manno, is the Public Library, full of ancient and rare books in Catalan language. Almost opposite the library is the Church of Mercy, with times trachyte, cross vaults of the nave and once driving in the choir. 
Via Carlo Alberto leads to Piazza Sulis summer meeting place for teachers during the summer, with bars and restaurants, and the Waterfront overlooking Columbus, dominated by the Tower of Sulis, on two floors with circular rooms. From the terrace of the tower is possible to admire a fantastic landscape of the city and along the coast.

Proceeding on the right of the tower you can cross the adjacent Via Simon, the way that allows you to see the remarkable examples of military architecture already cited, namely the towers of Sant Joan and Land Port dels or Ebreus. Also from Piazza Sulis  you can continue on the road opposite, or stroll along the panoramic of Lungomare Valencia from which you can admire a fantastic landscape that looks towards Capo Caccia, north, and the southern promontory of Cape Marargiu along the Alghero -Bosa road. 

From far side of the city,  just from the harbour, walk northward to the Lido, along the beautiful Waterfront Busquets, now in the process of renewal, built to connect the historic city with the port itself and bathing area. Nearby, inwards, you can follow a road that leads to the shrine of our lady of Valverde probably the most interesting country church of Alghero and visited often during the spring.

L’Ea di Lavru (Sardinia)

Name:seanlev

Advantages: Fantastic beaches, Cheap to get to, Unspoilt

Disadvantages: Same shopping prices as UK, No air con

We decided on a Sardinian holiday after visiting Corsica last year. The islands are very similar with the obvious exception of one being French and the other being Italian. 

On the whole, the roads in Sardinia are better than Corsica and it is certainly cheaper to get to (£120 round trip through RyanAir flying from Stansted to Alghero). 

We stayed in Porto San Paolo which is on the north east coast just below Olbia. This time we decided to everything ourselves so the flights were booked through the RyanAir web site, we booked a car through the easyautos website (www.easyautos.co.uk) and the apartment through the web also. This worked out a hell of a lot cheaper than going through any of the normal channels – I reckon we saved over £300 and we had no problems at all (maybe we were lucky). 

The apartment we rented was just up the hill from Porto San Paulo – certainly within walking distance although it is a bit of a pull back up the hill on hot nights. The apartment was very nice with a fridge, hob, etc. although no oven or grill, or air conditioning for that matter. 

Flavio, the owner/manager who you deal with throughout the booking process is extremely helpful, speaks very good English and provides a very comprehensive set of instructions. The instructions cover all the local beaches – definitely needed as it is not obvious from the main road how to get to the beaches and you would simply not find them without help – plus shops, restaurants, excursions and so on. Quite simply these instructions were invaluable and contributed greatly to our holiday enjoyment. 

My only gripe with the apartments was that you really had to drive to all the beaches – Porto San Paolo acts as an excellent base, but the beach is shingle compared to the brilliant white sands of some of the nearby beaches. 

You can check out where we stayed at http://www.lavru.it/en/home.htm – the site is in English and Italian, and yes the beaches are shown we 
re local and we visited all of them. We went in June and it was really hot (I think hotter than normal) and, although the main public beaches were busy they weren’t too crowded – some of the smaller beaches in Flavio’s instructions had small coves whish you could have to yourselves. Our apartment had a fantastic view out over the sea to the island of Tavolara. 

We went on excursions north to the Costa Smerelda – very nice but watch the prices in the cafe’s – and south down to Cala Gonone – which is well worth a visit to see the sea caves and Cala Luna.

Wine Tasting Itinerary

Partial to a drop of wine? Let someone else do the driving!! Here is an itinerary(151 km or 2 hours 30mins) of some of the most important places for wine production in Sardinia

1st stop: Jerzu
Jerzu is a big village, built on different levels with houses on several floors overlooking the main street, and surrounded by grapevines grown on the steep sides of the hills. In this area, about 100,000 quintals of grapes are produced every year and worked in the winery famous for its Cannonau Rosso DOC. The village is, in fact, known around Sardinia as “la città del vino” (the city of wine). Besides the winery, the vitivinic business Antichi Poderi Jerzu is present, with the production of its red and rosy Cannonau di Jerzu and its Cannonau di Sardegna. 

2nd stop: Tortolì
A small town at a stone’s throw from enchanting beaches, also known for its food and wine tradition relating to its agro-pastoral origins. Still today, some dishes, such as the traditional culurgiones, are prepared according to recipes handed down from generation to generation, almost as in a rite. In the village, moreover, the winery Cantina Sociale Ogliastra, famous most of all for the cultivation of Cannonau and for the wide range of products offered, from aperitifs to table and dessert wines, also makes an excellent wine. 

3rd stop: Oliena
Oliena is a village devoted to agriculture known for its landscape beauty and an excellent wine which has inebriated even the most illustrious people. The name of the village is, in fact, linked to the full-bodied Nepente, a premium quality of Cannonau produced by Oliena and Gostolai’s wineries. This fine wine is even mentioned by G. D’Annunzio in a 1909 letter: still today, his famous quotation appears on the bottle labels: “Non conoscete il nepente d’Oliena neppure per fama? Ahi lasso! Io sono certo che, se ne beveste un sorso, non vorreste mai più partirvi dall’ombra delle candide rupi, e scegliereste per vostro eremo una di quelle cellete scarpellate nel macigno che i Sardi chiamano Domos de Janas, per quivi spugnosamente vivere in estasi fra caratello e quarteruolo. Io non lo conosco se non all’odore; e l’odore, indicibile, bastò a inebriarmi.” (“You don’t even know the Nepente of Oliena not even by name? Ouch weary! If you tried it, you would never be willing to leave the shadow of the white cliffs, and would choose one of those small cells as your hermitage in what Sardinians call Domos de Janas, to live there raptured. I only know its bouquet; and this bouquet, inexpressible, was enough to inebriate me.”, a.t.). 

4th stop: Mamoiada
In 1770 the island’s Savoy viceroys noticed the village of Mamoiada for the abundance of its grapevines. In the village, especially an excellent Nepent is produced, characterised by a special bouquet and a high alcoholic gradation. Mamoiada is a centre known for its traditional carnival masks of “Mamuthones” and “Issokadores” and the marvellous environment characterised by oaken and chestnut woods which surround the inhabited centre.

Sardinian Cuisine in Cagliari

The Sardinian capital is famous for its delicious local dishes: delicious malloreddus-a typical Sardinian pasta made from semolina wheat, eggs, water and salt and seasoned with a good tomato sauce with sausage and fresh pecorino. You should also try the delicious culurgiones, another type of pasta stuffed with potato, mint and pecorino, then seasoned with a delicate sauce with basil.

Among the main courses, which are also exceptional, we must mention Su Porcheddu, the typical suckling pig, loved by locals and tourists alike. Sardinians love meat!! Make sure you try the lamb stews seasoned with a delicious sauce made from chopped dried tomatoes, garlic and olive oil. The Cordula with peas is a fantastic dish: is none other than the lamb’s intestine in olive oil with garlic and parsley and then cooked in a pot with water and peas.

Sardinian Desserts: pardulas, small cakes stuffed with fresh ricotta, or bianchittus,  meringues, cakes very light derived from simple ingredients such as almonds, sugar and egg white. 

For digestive purposes!! immediately after the meal, you should order a Mirto, the Sardinian drink of choice made from Myrtle berries.

Cagliari – The Castello District

Castello  is certainly the most important historical area of Cagliari and is surrounded by ancient ramparts, Pisan towers and contains some of Cagliari’s most important buildings, museums and churches . Here you will find the beautiful Church of Santa Maria del Monte, built in 1591 and the former barracks of the Piedmontese from the eighteenth century. Other sites include  Church of the Holy Cross, built in 1661 and one of the most beautiful architectural gems of the city, dell’Elefante Tower, erected in 1307. From Castello you also get spectacular views of the city, including the lagoon of Santa Gilla and the mountains of Sulcis. .

Entry to Castello is through ancient fortified towers built when the Pisans were in power.The ancient portal is still intact . A little later will meet the Porta dei Leoni, which marks the transition from the district of Castello to that ofMarina, near the port is the wonderful Terrace Umberto I, or bastion of St. Remy, built from the beginning of the twentieth century and considered as a sort of entrance to the beautiful panoramic terrace. Proceeding further, it comes to Independence Square, irregular shape, where are the National Museum and the Tower of S. Pancrazio.

The Tower of San Pancrazio, the first tower of Pisa erected in Cagliari, was designed byJohn Capulas, and was built in 1305. Near the tower is also the ancient palace of Siziate (Seat of the Sardinian Parliament). In Independence Square you can admire a particularly interesting palace that was home to the National Archaeological Museum from 1908 to 1993. Once exceeded the arcades of the museum, access to Piazza Arsenale, topped by the aforementioned Torre di San Pancrazio, on your right you can see the Porta de S’Avanzada, beyond which you can enter into Viale Regina Elena. Beyond the door dell’Arsenale will become available also to the famous Citadel of Museums, a large conglomerate urban designed by the architects Cecchini and Gazzola in 1984. The latter is home to some of the most famous universities, such as the National Archaeological Museum, the National Art Gallery, the collection of Anatomiche Wax Museum and Eastern Europe.

From Independence Square, via Martini leads to the vast Palace Square, so called because of the presence of the Palace of Government or Royal Palace, built in 1769.The square is rectangular, slightly tilted and is dominated by the Cathedral of Santa Maria, one of the most important monuments in Sardinia. The Cathedral was built between 1274 and 1300 but its structure was amended in Baroque style in 1674 by the architects and P. D. Spotorno Fossati. Its facade was rebuilt in 1933 and its Romanesque portals are still the ancient fragments of the original XIV secolo.L ‘internal Church is full of ornaments, marble and a large number of paintings. In the transepts are also two Gothic chapels built in 1300, in the left transept is a poliptico the sixteenth century, produced by M. Cavaro, while the right is the triptych of Clement III, representing Christ and Santa Margherita. In the left transept, you can also admire the mausoleum of the young Martino, an Aragonese prince who died in Cagliari in 1409. 
The most important artistic masterpieces inside the facade of the Church. There are two pulpits designed by the maestro William and constructed in 1159. Originally they were constructed for the Cathedral of Pisa, but later were donated to the city of Cagliari. William created several sculptures in the pulpits, some of which depict the life of Christ, and four wonderful lions in the Romanesque style that decorate the staircase. Under the presbytery you can visit the original crypt, which is divided into three chapels and is adorned by thousands of different tiles. 

Once left the Palace Square, is the City Palace, built in the eighteenth century, which was used as the City Hall for  two centuries. Today it hosts the ‘municipal historical archive, . On the left of the building are also the small Gothic Church Of Hope, the Way Fossario and the near Terrace Umberto I. A short distance from the terrace leads to  Buoncammino, i

Cagliari- The Stampace District

S.Efiso in Stampace
S.Efisio Celebrations in Stampace

The district Stampace extends westward from the Largo Carlo Felice. At one time, the area was a real residential area where noble families lived . If you take the characteristic Via Azuni, you can visit two large churches S. Annaand S. Michele. 

The Church of St. Anna was built between 1785 and 1817, It is typical Baroque-Piedmont style and was restructured as a result of major bombings in 1943. Leaving from the side of the church, is the hypogeum of S. Restituta, a rock that keeps track of attendance from Roman until 1943-44, years during which it was used as a refuge.

At the end of Via Azuni stands the important Jesuit church of St. Michele,built during the seventeenth century. It ‘a wonderful example of baroque style, with its polychrome marble, stucco, canvases and painted wooden statues, all distributed between classroom and sacristies. The church is also formed by large porches in front and an interesting pulpit of the sixteenth century, while its original architectural structure was fundamentally characterized by a central plan shaped dome with ornaments and polychrome marbles on altars, columns and even on the pavement .The sacristy is particularly valuable, decorated with beautiful designs Colombino and Altomonte.

On the right of the church you can see a monumental door, topped by the Tower of Pisa S. Michele, built in 1293. 

A little further up the hill is the easily distinguishable neoclassical building of ‘Civil Hospital, designed by Piedmont Cima. It ‘a particularly interesting building with an orderly distribution of internal lanes through a radial corridors.

Proceeding along Via S. Efisio, a fairly steep staircase leads to an underground chamber, the prison of S. Efisio, the martyr and patron saint of Cagliari. Further up Via Sant Efisio  is Church of St. Efisio, built in Baroque style, within which is also venerated statue of the saint. On the first of May each year, this is the starting point for the colourful and evocative celebration of S. Efisio the saint of Cagliari in which his statue is carried to Nora, the place of his martyrdom, in memory of liberation from the terrible plague of 1652 -56.

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